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The Truth About Puppy Biting (And What Actually Works)

  • Mar 21
  • 4 min read

Brown and white puppy playfully tugging on a striped rope in a grassy yard, with a red ball nearby. Bright and lively scene.

Let’s just say it - puppy biting is a lot!


It starts out cute, but when those little needle teeth are on your hands, your clothes, your ankles… it gets old fast. And if you’re sitting there wondering how much of this is “normal puppy behavior” and how much of it is something you’re doing wrong, keep reading!


Most puppy biting problems aren’t really about biting...


Why Your Puppy Is Biting

Yes, puppies bite because they’re teething, exploring, and just generally being puppies. That’s all true.


But the piece that gets missed all the time is this: most of the really intense biting shows up when a puppy is overtired or overstimulated.


And puppies are tired way more often than people think!


They don’t just go lay down and take a nap when they need one either. They get wild. Bitey. Zoomy. A little unhinged, honestly. (think overtired toddler, IYKYK).


If your puppy has a “witching hour” where everything escalates out of nowhere, that’s usually not a training issue.


That’s a tired puppy who doesn’t know how to settle.


The Advice That Doesn’t Work (And Why)

A lot of the common advice floating around isn’t wrong, it’s just incomplete.


Saying “no” doesn’t really give your puppy anything to do instead.


Yelping can work for some puppies, but for a lot of them it just makes you more interesting.


Ignoring it can help… but only if your puppy is regulated enough to actually stop. And most of the time, they’re not.


So you end up feeling like nothing is working, when really you’re just missing a piece of the puzzle 🧩


What Actually Works (Real-Life, Doable Stuff)


1. Fix the Sleep First (this will be a game-changer)


Sleep is a huge part of it. Most puppies need a lot more rest than they’re getting, and behavior improves noticeably when that’s in place. If your puppy is up for long stretches and then suddenly becomes a little chaotic, that’s usually your cue. Depending on their age, puppies can need 18–20 hours of sleep a day! If they’re not getting their rest, the biting will not improve. I am talking about intentional, restful, unbothered sleep. Not a 15 minute nap in the living room floor, and then pop back up when they hear a snack open...


This is where your crate (or a safe sleep space) becomes your best friend.

👉 If you haven’t set that up yet, you can read my crate training guide here.


Better sleep = better behavior. Every time.


2. Redirect (but do it right)


Redirection simply means, do this... not this. When your puppy is biting you, we’re not just trying to make them stop. We’re trying to show them what to do instead.


You interrupt the biting and then you give them something they can chew on. So instead of your sleeve, your hands, your leggings, now they’ve got a toy in their mouth!


Because if your puppy is chewing their toy, they’re not chewing you. We’re not trying to get rid of the urge to bite, that’s not realistic. We’re just giving that energy somewhere better to go.


"But am I rewarding the biting?"


This is such a common worry! The key is to use redirection early, as a proactive approach. If you see your puppy starting to get rowdy and bitey, redirect them to a toy. Sometimes, this happens right away. That's fine! You'll want to have plenty of toys on standby for this reason. And your puppy is rewarded because the play continues! If you are super consistent with this, they begin to learn how to self-regulate on their own, and that's a magical skill 💫


3. Remove Yourself When Needed


Sometimes your puppy is too far gone. That’s your cue to stop engaging. Calmly stand up, step away, create some space. No yelling, no big reaction, no turning it into a game, just... access to you goes away. That’s a really clear message your puppy can understand. Because something else that's really important to understand is:


When you’re frustrated and you start moving your hands, pushing them away, reacting quickly… to you, that feels like setting a boundary. To your puppy, it often looks like play. Movement, energy, and quick reactions are how dogs play with each other. And if you really think about it, when you play with a puppy, thats pretty much what you do. So from their perspective, things just got more exciting. That’s why it escalates so fast sometimes.


Final Thoughts

This is one of those things where consistency matters way more than doing it perfectly. With the same responses, over and over (redirecting, making sure they’re getting enough rest, not accidentally turning it into a game), you'll start to see small improvements over time.


If you’re reading this covered in tiny scratches wondering if you made a mistake… I promise you didn’t. Puppy biting can feel like a lot when you’re in it every day.

But this phase doesn’t last forever. And once you understand what’s actually going on, it becomes a whole lot easier to handle!


If this is what you’re dealing with right now, I’ve got you. I put together a free guide - 5 Essential Ways to Set Your Puppy Up for Success - that walks you through the basics that make a huge difference (and help with things like biting too).



Helping Dogs and Their People Feel More Confident


Pamela, dog trainer, hugging a golden retriever outside during a dog training session

I work with families on Long Island and also support dog owners virtually, so no matter where you’re located, you don’t have to navigate puppy challenges alone.


Whether you’re starting fresh with a new puppy or working through specific challenges, I’m here to help!


🌐 Website: www.embarkdogsli.com

 
 
 

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